05年越野车穿越的资料,有很多地名,我没细看
http://bbs.365ktz.com/viewthread.php?tid=9144&extra=page%3D1

同时这个论坛里面有不少资料可以查看
http://bbs.365ktz.com/forumdisplay.php?fid=33&page=1

好风长吟给martin 05年穿越羌塘做的一点翻译:
http://bbs.365ktz.com/viewthread.php?tid=15851&extra=page%3D1

今天看到好风长吟的回复,可以放心的贴过来了。

一个人的羌塘

George Schaller:

"With its ecological wholeness, stark beauty, and sense of unfettered freedom, it is a place where mind and body can travel, where one's soul can dance. It is the essence of the Chang Tang."

那里的整个生态,那荒凉的美,那无边的自由
这是一个可以让思想和身体无拘束地旅行
而灵魂可以自由舞蹈的地方
那就是——羌塘

Trip report - part one:

A small travelupdate.

I am right now in a town called Gerze in northern Tibet, about to start an
我现在在藏北的一个名叫改则的县城,准备开始
unsupported south-north solo crossing of Tibets Chang Tang, a 1000 kilometer
南北单骑无后援纵穿藏北羌塘高原,一个1000公里的自行车旅行
biketrip through a vast high-altitude environment mainly situated above 5000
穿越一个广阔的绝大部份在5000米以上高海拔的高原
meters. This area, more than 600.000 km2, is one of the least explored places
这片区域,面积超过60万平方公里,是地球上最少被人探索的区域之一,
on earth due to its remoteness and the harsh living conditions. Even the
因为他如此的偏僻如此恶劣的生存环境。
sturdy Tibetan nomads only live in the southern rim of the area where
既使是强健的西藏当地牧民,也只是生活在这片土地的南缘。
temperatures occasionally drop below - 40 C during wintertime.
这里在这冬天气温常降至零下40度。
There have been two unsupported expedition crossings of Tibets Chang Tang
之前只有两次无后援跨越羌塘的探险。
before, the first was done by two German pioneers, Frank Kauper and Steffan
第一次是两位德国探索先锋,Frank Kauper 和 Steffan Simmerer ,
Simmerer who crossed central Chang Tang in 1997 in 51 days where they didn't
他们在1997年费时51天从中心穿越羌塘,而其中有35天是见不到一个人影的无人区
see people for 35 days. They climbed 6400+ Zangser Kangri in the middle of
他们还攀登了位于羌塘中央的查山岗日,
Chang Tang as well. The second was in 2003 when Swedish Janne Corax and
第二次是在2003年,两个瑞典人Janne Corax 和Nadine Saulnier
Nadine Saulnier in 47 days crossed eastern Chang Tang without seeing people
在47天内穿越东羌塘,其中有37天是渺无人烟的无人区。
for 37 days. National Geographic Channel has broadcasted a documentary
国家地理频道对这次穿越以《太累了》为名播放了相关资料
called "Too tired" on the last crossing.

[ 本帖最后由 好风长吟 于 2008-10-23 16:46 编辑 ]

I have spend four days here in town, resting a bit after cycling more than
我在这个镇上休息了4天,作为从拉萨到此地
1200 kilomteres to here from Lhasa as warm-up. For the forthcoming challenge
骑行1200公里热身后的稍事休息,也为即将到来的挑战
I have here in town
bought more than 35 kg. of food, 13 kg of instant noodles, 9 kg of
我在这里买了超过35公斤的食品,13公斤的速食面,9公斤的奶粉
milkpowder, 2,5 kg. of Dove chocolate, 7,5 kg. Chinese moon festival cakes,
2.5公斤的DOVE巧克力。中国的月饼,2.5公斤,还有糖,诸如此类……
2,5 kg. candie, ect... To this I have to add between 6 and 7 L of gasoline
为此,我还加了6至7升汽油
for cooking and for melting ice during the later part of the trip when
用于煮食和用于融冰取水,因为在后续部份旅程中,
temperatures begin to plunge below - 30 C at night. Yesterday, I did a 25
夜晚的气温有可能跌到零下30度,我还在改则的北边试骑行了25公里
kilometers recoinnance bike trip north of town and it seems like the
看起来似乎
surroundings right now are rather dry which means I might have to start out
现时的环境确实太过干旱,如此一来,我每天的饮用水不得不设为10升
with 10 L of water as well.

I also burden my poor bike with everything nessary for crossing through Chang
为了安全穿越羌塘,必须带足一切必须的东西,我只能让我可怜的车车加重负荷了
Tang safely. I have a - 40 C sleeping bag, high altitude mountaineering tent,
我还准备了零下40度的睡袋,高山帐、
down jacket, two stoves (one extra if the first fails), satellite phone, 2 gb
冲锋衣,两个炉头(一主一备呵),卫星电话,2G闪存的
flash mp3 player against solitude, ice axe, ski gogles, etc. etc...
mp3播放器,用于对付孤寂,冰镐,雪地靴,等等等等
If things go well and I get unnoticed through the settlements north of Gerze
如果一切进展顺利的话,我将不为人注意地通过改则北面的有人居住的地区
and enter the nature preserve without being caught by the Chang Tang nature
并进入保护区,而不被守护在南边的羌塘自然保护区的巡护人员逮住
patrol service men guarding the southern area, I hope I have the  time, food
我希望我有充足的时间、食物和精力攀登
and spirit to climb a
relatively easy unclimbed 6100+ meters mountain some 14 days from here. If
相对比较容易攀登的6100多米的高山,从这里开始14天之内的
things really turns out well, I also hope to be able to climb a 6300+ heavy
如果一切进展顺利的话,最好在新疆和西藏的交界处,
glaciered mountain massive on the border between the xinjiang and Xizang
我也希望能够找到一座6300米,覆盖着厚厚冰川的山来爬爬过过瘾。
(Tibet) province before crossing the Arka Tagh range and the altun Shan range
在翻越Arka塔格山脉和altun山脉,到达一个位于Ulugh 慕士塔格山北面名叫
to a small settlement called Tura north of Mt. Ulugh Mustagh From here I
吐拉的定居点,从吐拉出发我将试着
will probably try to hitchhike to a town called Qiemo on the southern route
搭车旅行到且末县,它位于塔克拉玛干大沙漠南侧的公路边(315国道)
in the Taklamakan desert.

[ 本帖最后由 好风长吟 于 2008-8-26 23:26 编辑 ]

There will be trucktrails the first 150-200 kilometers north of gerze, then
离开改则150-200公里有很多卡车的车辙印,然后
starts the off-road cycling where the ground most places will be to soft for
开始越野骑行,然而大部份地面对于骑行来说都太软了
cycling forcing me to push and drag the bike. This minimise
以致于不得不推着提着车子走。
distance travelled to between 20-25 kilometers per day accoding to my
这将每天的旅行距离缩短至20-25公里,按照
experience during my last two bike trips in Chang Tang. There are wolf and
我的上两次在羌塘旅行的经验。在这个地段有狼和熊出没,
bears in the area, but they are normally scared of people. If this also is
不过通常他们都对人怕得要死,不过对于传说中的喜马拉雅雪人来说
the case with the Yeti, I don't know...
是否也是这样,就不得而知了。。。。。。
The journey to here has taken longer than expected. From Denmark I flew to
旅程到这儿,已经超过了预期的时间了。我从丹麦飞
Hong Kong where I ended up staying unexpected 12 days waiting for a front
香港,在那里浪费了我12天时间,只为等我自行车的前叉
rack for my bicycle which a company failed to deliver to me in Denmark before
因为公司在我离开前并未如他们所保证的及时寄出来
departure which they had promised. The reason for travelling over Hong Kong
旅经香港的原因是
was to get a 6 months Chinese business visa which I got in 4 hours. I liked
我只花了4个小时便可以得到6个月的中国商务签证,我喜欢
staying in Hong Kong because I love
呆在香港,是因为我喜欢
its 'Blade Runner' atmosphere, the ethnic and cultural mixture - e.g. in
此间有一种《银翼杀手》(译者注:雷德利.斯科特的著名科幻电影)电影中的氛围,种族和文化的融合,例如在
central Kowlon lays a mosk which got a banner for McDonald on a sidewall.
九龙的中央街道两边既有清真寺又有麦当劳的路边店。

>From Hong Kong I flew to Chengdu where I was shocked when told by two travel
从香港我飞往成都,当两个旅行代理告诉我可以提早10天就飞往拉萨时
agencies that I could earlies fly to Lhasa in 10 days. Normally it only takes
我感到非常震惊。一般来说只需提早2至3天预约便可以搞到入藏的许可证然后飞往拉萨
two or three days to get the nessary Tibet permit in order and fly to Lhasa.
The problem was the 40 years aniversary for establishment of the Tibet
问题是9月1日是西藏自治区成立40周年记念日
autonomus region on the 1. september, which created long delays for
造成了对入藏的旅行者很长时间的延时
travellers trying to get into Tibet due to political reasons. I was however
这个应该算是政治的原因。不过好歹我还算
lucky and found after a intense search a travelagent (Sams Guesthouse)which
幸运的,经过极力的寻找终于找到一家旅行社(Sams Guesthohuse),
seemed to be better at corruption than the competitors.
看来腐败比之于竞争还是有那么一些好处滴。
Together with a group of backpackers I flew to Lhasa
Airport onbord a flight
和一队背包客一起,我抵达拉萨机场,
with less than 25% of the seats full. After a 90 kilometers busride we
机上的上客率不到25%,坐了90公里的大巴后到拉萨,
arrived in Lhasa only to smell the remains of the massive amount of fireworks
只闻到空气中一股的烟火的残留味道
from the day before when the celebration took place. I spend four days in
那是几天前的40周年庆典残留下来的。我在拉萨呆了四天
Lhasa for acclimatising and sightseeing. I only wanted to stay three days,
一方面是适应一下另一方面也顺便观光一下。我其实只想呆三天,
but a mild altitude headage and singing sirens in the shape of backpacker
但轻微的高反头痛和有着背包客的外型实质是歌唱着的妖精的女孩(指奥德赛中唱歌的妖精)
girls keept me in bay for a landcruiser trip to Gandan monastic and Yamdrok
把我留了下了参加一次乘陆巡去甘丹寺和羊卓雍错的旅程
Co. The road up to the pass before the lake has now been paved, a stark
在到羊湖前的通往山口的路已经辅设好了,
contrast to 1998 when I used 9 hours to cycle up the gravel road to the pass-
对比一下1998年真的是天上地下,当年我用一辆在拉萨花了40美金买的山地车花了9个小时
top with a 40 usd mountain bike bought in Lhasa.
走完这段砂石路。
I started cycling which was rather hard after not cycling for one month
我开始骑行,感觉实在有点辛苦,特别是一个月没有骑车,除了
except for a sucidial 5 kilometers ride on Natan road in central Hong Kong.
除了在香港市中心的Natan路上骑了自杀式的5公里
Somehow I forced my old body into the bikerytm again and reaced Shigatse, the
不管怎么样,老汉我打起精神骑行,三天后终于抵达日喀则这个西藏第二大城市。
second largest city in Tibet after three days of cycling. Here I stayed at
在那里我住在Tenzing旅馆
Tenzing Hotel where I was spectator to a rather unorthodox cyclist behavior.
在那儿,我被视作一个异教的骑车者
A dutch couple, who apparently had been on the road for 1 1/2 years had hung
一对荷兰夫妇,他们明显已经在路上呆了一年半时间了,已将
a couple of trouhers out on the balcony in the hotelyard for drying. The
一条长裤挂在阳台的栏杆上晾干
trousers had gone missing and when I arrived the Dutch guy had begun to throw
长裤丢了,当我到达时,那个荷兰人已经开始将一个
50 cm wide old flower vases down into the hotel yard threatening to throw one
50公分宽的旧花瓶摔在旅馆的栏杆上,
more down every 5 minuts until his thrusers turned up again. I walked away
并准备如果他的长裤不出现的话,就每5分钟再扔一个(怕怕),我走出去
shaking my head wondering if that was his normal behavior or it was the
摇晃了一下脑袋想不出来这是他的正常的状态,还是
frustrations from 1 1/2 years of cyling coming to the surface.
经过一年半的骑行所表现的挫折感。
Walking over the a small turist market just opposite the hotel, I kept
在旅馆对面的一个很小的旅游纪念品市场晃荡了一下,
shaking my head. Here I could buy horns for about 5 usd for a set of horns
我禁不住一直在摇头。在这里我可以买到濒危的藏羚羊的角
from threatened Tibetan Antelopes, even whole heads I could buy - I counted
只要5个美金就能买到一副,甚至可以买到整个头
31 horns including two whole heads. The number was about the same for Tibetan
我数了一下,这个市场里共有31个角还包括两个完整的头。这个数量大约与改则县的
Gazelles. These elegant animals belongs to the vast emptyness of Tibets Chang
数量相同。这些优雅的动物应该属于广阅无边的藏北羌塘高原
Tang, not in a dirty souvenir market.
而不属于此腌脏的纪念品市场。
>From Shigatse I biked to Lhatse on a highway under constuction. It wasn't
从日喀则到拉孜的路正在建设之中,
too bad for cycling except for a pass which looked like it had been invaded
除了一个山口似乎被远处蚂蚁入侵,其它的对骑行来说没啥问题
by ants on distance. However, it was an invasion of engineer mashins which
但是工程机械的入侵迫使
forced me to push the bike most of the way up the pass through mud and
我不得不下车推行从整条塞满工人和陆巡的烂泥路中穿过
inbetween workers and landcruisers.

[ 本帖最后由 好风长吟 于 2008-8-26 23:28 编辑 ]

Well down from the pass, I met better roadconditons toward Lhatse and
从山口下来则不错,从这里到拉孜道路条件好得多
frequent yelled "tashidalay" (hallo) to the kids I passed along the way. A
沿途的小朋友们都“扎西得勒”地与我打招呼
group of three kids were not satisfied with only a greeting, but wanted me to
有3个一起的小朋友似乎对只是问候一下并不满意,希望我停下来
stop to hand out candy. When I continued, I was hit by a rather big stone on
给他们一些糖吃。但我没有停下来,老天,一大块石头飞过来击中我的右手
my right hand and I squeezed the brakes so hard the bike turned sidewise when
我急捏了一把车闸,由于用力太猛,车子斜向一边侧滑后才停住。
it came to a standstill. After a hot pursuit across two fields I felt pretty
追他们过两片地后才把他们抓住
confident the kids were terrified to death and wouldnt throw stones after
我很有自信他们已受到死亡恐吓,并且决不会在今后再向
other cyclist in the near future. I let them run and biked the last stretch
骑行者丢石头。我放跑了他们,然后继续骑行在延伸到拉孜待铺设的最后一段路
of road to Lhatse which was about to be paved.

In Lhatse I was taken by a Tibetan to a dirty hotel room where Johannes was
在拉孜我被一位藏民带到一个脏兮兮的旅馆房间,Johannes在那里等我
sitting. Johannes, a young 19-old German bought a 200 usd bike in Lhasa and
Johannes是个十九岁的德国小子,前些天在拉萨买了一辆200美金的自行车
started out on a bike trip to Kathmandu the day before I. He had been vise to
就开始了到加德满都的骑行之旅。有人曾建议他
take another road from to Lhatse and avoided the road construction fuss. We
从拉孜选择另一条路以避免道路施工带来不便。
shared the room together before he took off early the next morning to try his
我们共住一个房间,次日清晨这小子骑行出发去挑战
strength on a 5000+ meters pass on the way toward Nepal.
尼泊尔之路5000多米的山口去了

I passed an easy checkpoint just after lhatse by cycling though it while the
从拉孜出来我轻易地过了一检查点
guard was busy checking a drivers licience. After turning off to West Tibet,
当时他们正忙着检查大货司机的驾照呢。从此一路向西
the road became rather bad while going up the first of a serie of passes
道路变差了,特别是此去先经过的一系列海拔在4500米以上的山口。
around 4500 meters high. The weather also detoriorated and I spend one
天公也不作美,我花了一个下午时间翻越一个山口
afternoon in purging rain while going over a pass, the desent very prone to
而且被雨淋成落汤鸡,由于滑坡以致坡非常陡。
landslides. Lukely, I found a small Tibetan restaurant where I spend the
还算幸运,我找到一个食宿店过了一个晚上
night. Here I wondered how the future looked for the owners small child, here
在这里,我又开始担心起店老板的小孩的未来了,
in a place where any school was very distant away.
在这个所有学校都离得很远的地方

Slowly I worked my way up into a landscape in the proximity of 5.000 meters
我在路上埋头苦干,慢慢地接近5000米的山口风光
where I came to Raka, a depressing soul-less truckstop with the mandatory
在那里我来到,一个令人沮丧的丢了魂的卡车停靠点,有着指定的
restaurants, shops and truck workshops. He I talked a bit with a truckdiver
餐厅、商店和卡车修理厂。在这里我和一个卡车司机谈了一会
in a Hui-restaurant - a muslim Han-chinese restaurant - the best restaurants
在一个回民餐馆,即汉化的穆斯林的餐馆,也是附近最好的餐馆。
around. I showed him on a map where in Tibet I had cycled and he seemed very
我把自已在西藏骑行过的路线在地图上指给他看,而他侧似乎十分地困惑
puzzled. In a way I understand. For him the roads in Tibet only represents
我是这么理解的,对他来说西藏的路只代表着艰苦的工作,
hard work, but for me they have a higher meaning. They give me access to
但是对我则代表更高一层的意义。他们给予我一个访问无边界的
unfenched freedom and the opportunity to enjoy one of the most amazing places
自由的机会,和一个享受这个地球上最神奇的所在的机会
on earth - experience the uniqueness of the Tibetan plateau.
——感受如此不凡的青藏高原。

There was supposed to be a checkpoint at Raka, but I meet nothing when I
好象RADA也是一个检查点,
passed the normal turnoff from southern route to the northern, a route which
但当我从一个普通的叉道经过,从南面的路掉头向北时,我什么也没遇到
would bring me fast to Gerze, but I had other plans. A friend of mine, Janne
这是条通往改则的近道,但是我不想走这条近道。我的一个朋友,Janne Corax
Corax, had been so evil to mail me pages from a Chinese road atlas over
给我寄了几页关于西藏的中国道路地图集
Tibet. According to these maps I would by going futher on in the southern
按照这些地图我应当在西藏的南部进一步深入
part of Tibet run into roadpasses which should be the highest on earth, even
奔向那些地球上最高的道路山口,
5800+ meters roadpasses might be possible. That was too irresistible for a
有些山口可能在5800米以上。对于一个彻底的梦想者,发自心底的山口讨厌者,但又
thoroughly dreamer, pass-hater by heart, but always ready for a challange how
随时准备接受挑战的这样一个矛盾的混淆在一起的人来说,真是太有诱惑力了,呵呵
ever obscure it might be.

There was one backdraw with this plan, a heavy manned checkpoint before the
拉这个计划后腿的只有一条,在下一个名叫萨嘎的镇之前有一个重兵把守的检查点
next town called Saga. I had talked with two backpackers who had been caught
我与两个在此外被抓到而不得不返回的背包客交谈过
and turned back at the place, also some truckdriver warned me but there was
还有一些卡车司机也警告过我,但那附近又
no way around it. When coming down
没有其它的路,当从5100米的山口下山朝萨嘎骑去时
toward town from a 5100 meters pass, I was in a I-will-show-the-
我抱着一种在公安也就是警察面前显一下的心态
gongan/psb/police-mood and cycled right into the heavely
正对着重兵把守的检查点骑去
manned checkpoint - they had military uniforms. They called the police in
他们都穿着军队的制服。他们叫来了萨嘎的警察,
saga and a police landcruiser came to the checkpoint and told that I had to
警察的陆巡来到检查站,并且告诉我得到日喀则
get a permit in shigatse. I said there was a bit long to shigatse on a bike
搞一张许可证。我说骑车到日喀则有点远,
and why getting a travelpermit here was problem since I got one in Ali three
而且为啥在你这里搞到一张通行证就有问题?因为3年前我有去阿里的通行证
years ago and got one in Darchen last year. They talked forth and back about
去年在大成又搞到一张。他们前前后后讨论了半天
this and in the end they took me to the police station in town and told me
最后他们把我带到警察局,并且告诉我
that if I paid a fine of 300 yuan (30 USD) I would get a receipt I could show
如果我肯支付300元(就是30美金),那我就可以拿到一张收据
in Ali as proff for paid fine. Ali psb then would have to give me a permit...
到时我把这张收据给阿里的警察叔叔们看,然后我就会得到通行证了云云

I belive they only were thinking into the money since when I left the room
我相信他们还是想搞钱,因为当我离开房间时
the 5-6 police men started laughting like mad men - maybe they just got the
五六名警察开始狂笑起来—可能是刚刚他们拿到了
money the ali police normally get... I dont know and don't really care
阿里警察一般能拿到的钱。。。(丢银啊!)我不知道并且我也不关心
because I don't go to Ali.
因为我不去阿里。

发表于 2008-8-26 10:51

In Saga I met a lot of Indian pilgrims going to Mt.
Kailash in West Tibet.

在萨嘎我遇到很多印度的朝圣者,他们要去后藏的岗仁波齐转山
Somehow they didn't fit into the street picture walking around in thick down
他们穿的厚厚的夹克似乎总是与街景有点不太谐调,因为
jackets while local were wearing t-shirts. I left Saga and while heading up
当地人只穿着T恤呢。我离开萨嘎,在骑向离镇最近的第一个山口时
the first pass outside town I met two swiss bikers who had made it to there
我遇到两个从新疆省的喀什过来的瑞士的骑行者
from Kashgar in the Xinjing province. To my amazement they told that one of
我很吃惊,因为他们告诉我
their biggest problems had been high-altitude mosquitos. In Chinese Kashmir,
他们其中的一个最大的麻烦是高源蚊子。在中国的喀什米尔,
Aksai Chin, they had to bike with their mouth covered in order not to swallow
阿克赛钦地区,他们不得不遮住嘴巴骑车,以使自已不会把这些该死的虫子吞下肚
the small bastards. In Aksai Chin they also stopped at a military camp to ask
在阿克赛钦他们也有在军营前停下来然后讨水
for water - water is scare in the area - and some soldiers were about to fill
在这个地方水有点恐惧-当士兵正准备将瑞士人花俏的自行车水壶注水时,
up their fancy bicycle bottles when a military vehicle came to the base and
一辆军用车辆骑进营地,从车上跳下来一队
out jumped a group of officers with raised maskinguns. They thought the Swiss
军官,抬起的枪口黑洞洞的。他们以为
werer threathing the soldiers with fancy weapons - the bicycle bottles. In
瑞士人正用花俏的武器-自行车水壶危胁士兵呢。
the end they had to leave without water.
最后他们还是没加到水就离开了。
We separeted after talking for an hour. On the other side of the pass worked
我们谈了一个小时后分水。翻过山水的另一面
Chinese soldiers on leveling the road with shovels. The commander of one of
一些中国士兵在工作,用铁锹把路面加高。其中一队的指挥官
the groups invited me to stay at their place overnight which I could say no
邀请我在他们的住处过夜,对此我只能说不
to. I did so four years ago in Aksai Chin because I would have had to break
四年前在阿克赛钦同样有过这么一次,因为我不得不破坏自已的
my golden rule - cycle every centimeter of the road. I have now grown older and have
黄金法则—骑行者用自行车丈量道路的每一米。现在我变成熟了一点也变得更实用主义一些
become a bit more pragmatic and in the end I drove with them for 15
最后我和他们一起开车15公里到他们修路的营帐,在我之前骑过的路上。
kilometers to their road construction camp on a road I have cycled before. A
whisle blew soon after arrivial and everyone ran to the dinnerroom and I was
到达之后一声口消,每个人都跑进餐厅,而我被
placed next to the commander, a odd character who seemed to be respected
安排坐在指挥官的旁边,一个古怪的角色,他似乎靠年龄得到大部份的尊敬
mostly by age and the strange things he could come up with if the soldiers
他还有一种很奇怪的东西,如果士兵不服从他能立即赶上
didnt obey immediately - like throwing a rock after them. Then a officer
就象在他们后面扔石头驱赶一样。然后一个官头
tried to explain me what to exect of the small roads I wanted to bike, the
尝试向我解释我想骑的一条小路是个什么状况,
commandor just cut him of, in practise telling that it would be nut for me to
指挥官打断了他,实际上他是说只有疯子才会在那儿骑车。
be biking there.

The next day I turned off north into the Gangdise mountains where there
次日我掉头向北进入岗底斯山,那里
golden high passes according to the maps were suppored to be. After a long
就是地图上所指示的黄色的高高的山口。在一个长长的上坡路后,
uphill, I slept outside a shepards house. He told that there were two big
我在一处牧民的帐篷外睡着了。他告诉我前面有两个大山口,
passes in front, Shaksha La and
Sanmir La. I was also told the road would

桑桑和山米尔。并且告诉我路将是一滩糊涂的
anything but good. The first pass, 5215 meters wasnt bad but I was
第一个山口,5215米虽然不算坏,但我感觉上有点失望,
disappointed in the sense that a shepard I talked with punctured the dream of
因为牧民与我谈时说有可能要过5800米的山口,
one of the possible 5800 meters roadpasses. There simply wasn't any road up
而且我想翻越的直上山口可以说没有任何象样的路
the pass I considered going over - not a truck - not a bike could go there –
没有汽车、没有自行车曾经到过那儿
I would have to walk I was told!
而我说过我将从那儿穿越!

发表于 2008-8-26 10:52

After eating some Tsampa (barley with buttertea) I was offered in the
在牧民家吃过一些糌粑(混合了牛油和茶的大麦粉)之后
shepards home I went for the Sanmir La, quite big I was told. It certainly
我骑向山米尔山口,牧人告诉我这是一个大山口。
was! The road was very stony and the pass itself, 5504 meter laying in the
而它确实很大!路上碎石很多,山口海拔5504米处在7095米的高峰的阴影之下,是一个
shadow of a 7095 meter mountain was extremely flat pass - it took ages to get
绝对平坦的路口-需要很长的时间才能翻越
over it. While going over it, I had several memory flash back on the kerriya
在翻越山口的过程中,某几个时间我的记忆闪回到克里雅
shankou pass (5604 meters)in Nordwest Tibets uninhabited Chang tang.
山口(5605米),在杳无人迹的羌塘西北部。

Fantastic landscape where six Kiangs (wild Donkies) wondered what I were
无限神奇的风光,六只藏野驴看着我想着这个人
doing there. After another 5467 meters pass, I went down into a greenish and
到这儿来干吗。又翻过了一个5467米的山品后,我向下来到一个稍微有些绿色和
lushish valley after a crazy descent where I had to stop because I feard the
的山谷,在一段疯狂的冲下坡后。途中我几次停下来
tires would explode from the heat from the rims, so hot I couldn't touch it
因为担心刹车后巨烫的轮圈会使轮胎爆炸,它太烫了以致于
with my bare fingers.
我都不敢光着手去摸它。

发表于 2008-8-26 10:52

After a few minor rivercrossings which demanded taking off my boots I
淌过了几条小河,我还不得不脱去靴子
followed the valley toward north while big towering mountains to the west
我顺着山谷向北,西边是一些巨大的尖尖的山峰沿途伴随
should contain what I had been dreaming about for a while, the highest
其中有一座真是我做梦也想去的,呵呵
roadpass on earth, 5746 meters acccording to the Chinese road atlas.
地球上最高的山口,按照中国道路地图集标注的高度是5746米
Unfortunately, despite looking intensely for a road up into the mountains, I
不幸的是,不管多么热切地寻找通往山口之后,我
only found some very weak trails a few places and I simply didn't believe
还是只能在个别地方找到一些非常模糊的路迹,而且我简直不能相信
there was a road up to a place 40 km away in direct line
在胜利湖以北的山中会有一条路会笔直地通往40公里之外
in the mountains north of sengli lake. For truck drivers it makes more sense
因为那些很有路感的卡车司机开车转整座山里也会转晕了头
to drive around the whole mountain complex on the road there.I could have
gone up there, but in my eyes there is not a road up there.
我可以到哪里,但在我眼中没有路可以到那里。

Unfortunately, I missed a tempting and very easy 6000+
很不幸,我错过了一个极有诱惑力的6000多米的山峰
meters peak near the 5504 pass since the the 5746 meters roadpass was higher
它看起来比较容易攀登,就在5504米的山口附近,因为5746米的路口在我的名单中更高
on my list

After a long haul through some places where the road took kilometerlong
在一个长长的推行,通过几公里长的绕道转过巨大的河床之后,
detours when dealing with big riverbeds, I came to Lunggur, a place several
我来到了Lunggur,这个地方有几个藏民曾谈论过,
Tibetans had talked about as if it was a major town. I was very disappointed
似乎还是一个主要乡镇。我对这个镇非常失望
by this town, only small shops and a few bad tibetan restaurants. The next
只有几个小店和极差的藏餐馆,次日
day I hurried toward north - Gerze should be three days away I had been told,
我继续向北赶路,有人曾告诉我改则就只有三天的路程了
unfortunately I wasted 11 kilometers on taking a wrong way and when I got
很不幸的由于走错了道,走了11公里的错路
back on the right track I had to go over a ridiculus steep pass I was barely
为转回到正确的道路,我还不得不翻越一个非常陡峭的山口
able to push the bike over.
我只能推车前进
After cycling a whole day where Kiangs were seen
骑了一整天之后,我看到了
in large numbers, I came to a huge building complex under construction next
成群的藏野驴,我来到一个挺大的让人摸不着头脑的正在建设中的大楼前,
to a lake which turned out to be a Lithium salt plant. I was dragged in there
这个楼紧挨着湖,据说将成为一个锂盐的工程项目。
by a delegation of engineers from Beijing on a inspection visit. They were
我被一个北京来视察的工程师代表拉进去。
about to leave for Lhasa the next morning and had a small social gathering in
他们次日早上要离开此地到拉萨,正要在晚上搞一次聚会
the evening where the chef engineer, a distracted older man tried to get me
他们主任工程师,一个发狂的老头想要把我
drunk while I told him about the places in Tibet I had cycled on road he
灌醉,当我告诉他我在西藏骑行过的地方而他宣称并不存在。
claimed didnt exist.

发表于 2008-8-26 10:53

The next morning I was invited for breakfast by one of the engineers, a
次日上午,一个工程师邀我共进早餐,
Tibetan who had grown up in Rungbuk in the shadow of Mt.
Everest where his

他是在珠峰脚下的绒布村长大的,并且至今
brother now is munk in a local monasty.
他还有一个兄弟在当地的寺庙(绒布寺)作僧人。

From the Lithium plant, I used two day to bike to Gerze on confusing roads,
从锂矿出发,我花了两天时间走混乱的路到改则
roads going in different directions but ending up the same place.
这些高原上的路有很多不同的叉路但都通向一个目的地。
Staying her has been pleasent, but somehow I am now fed up with this place, I
呆在这个地方有很多乐趣,但无论如果我有点厌倦饱食终日,
just want to get on and face the Chang Tang after a four days food party
在四天的聚餐会后,我唯一所想就是出发去羌塘的路,
here. Also, the hotel staff begin to wonder what I am going to use all the
虽然,旅店的人员有点儿困惑我为什么拖了这么多食品到旅馆里
food I drag to the hotel for. Official I just tell people I go to Ali, the
我冠冕堂煌地告诉人们我要去阿里,一个西藏西部的重要集镇,
main town in west Tibet, but that 35 kg. of food is a bit much food going to
Ali.
但35公斤的食物对于去阿里来说似乎有点假
All right - no more writing - I leave tomorrow for the big adventure
好啦,不想写啦,我明天就出发,去进行这个伟大的探险去啦!

发表于 2008-8-26 10:54

…………略去改则前照片无数…………

135 packages of instant noodles. In Gerze DSC00407.jpg

Instant beef noodles, the best kind on the market. Gerze DSC00408.jpg

Gerze, dusty and cold at 4450 meters. DSC00409.jpg

Truck with supplies for Gerze DSC00414.jpg

Fully loaded with 35 kg. of food, 7 L of gazoline and 3.25 L of water DSC00417.jpg

Outside hotel, about to leave Gerze DSC00419.jpg

Ran into kids just outside school. Gerze DSC00422.jpg

My breakfast place. Gerze. DSC00424.jpg

My breakfast place. Gerze DSC00425.jpg

Yak statue in Gerze

Started cycling into Chang Tang, north of Gerze DSC00427.jpg

Started cycling into Chang Tang, north of Gerze. DSC00428.jpg

Sign for the Chang Tang national nature preserve DSC00430.jpg

Light late in the day. Toward Chang Tang. DSC00433.jpg

Lake on the edge of Chang Tang. DSC00434.jpg

Truck trail toward Chang Tang. DSC00435.jpg

Pass in front. Approaching Chang Tang DSC00436.jpg

Top of pass, late in day. Toward Chang Tang DSC00437.jpg

Long downhill toward next pass in front. Toward Chang Tang DSC00438.jpg

Mountains toward west DSC00439.jpg

View toward east. Approaching Chang Tang. DSC00440.jpg

Donkeys next to road. Toward Chang Tang. DSC00441.jpg

DSC00442.jpg (40.38 KB)

DSC00442.jpg

Looking back toward southwest. Into Chang Tang DSC00445.jpg

Downhill from pass toward salt lake. Into Chang Tang. DSC00446.jpg

Salt lake. Toward Chang Tang DSC00447.jpg

Looking to west from edge of salt lake. Into Chang Tang DSC00449.jpg

Heading toward small pass. I somehow miss Lugu(鲁谷). Into Chang Tang. DSC00454.jpg

Curious donkies. Into Chang Tang. DSC00455.jpg

Curious donkies. Into Chang Tang. DSC00456.jpg

Top of small pass. Into Chang Tang. DSC00457.jpg

Nomads on the edge of Chang Tang DSC00458.jpg

Nomads on the edge of Chang Tang. DSC00459.jpg

The local gang of shepards. Into Chang Tang DSC00460.jpg

Small lake: Into Chang Tang DSC00461.jpg

Shepards and Dong Feng trucks. Into Chang Tang DSC00462.jpg

Deteriorating truck trail. Into Chang Tang DSC00463.jpg

Truck near top of pass. Into Chang Tang DSC00464.jpg

Top of pass. Into Chang Tang DSC00466.jpg

Downhill to salt lake. Into Chang Tang DSC00467.jpg

cycling east around lake. Mountains to the south. Into Chang Tang DSC00468.jpg

Bad weather coming in. Into Chang Tang DSC00469.jpg

Going north east around lake, really bad trails. DSC00470.jpg

Weak trail leading up to pass in front DSC00472.jpg

Approaching pass. DSC00475.jpg

BIG prayer stone DSC00476.jpg

Descending from pass DSC00477.jpg

Looking west after pass. DSC00478.jpg

Looking west after pass. Into Chang Tang DSC00479.jpg

Cycling east around small complex of hills DSC00480.jpg

Shepards in front. Sleept this place DSC00481.jpg

Shepards in front. DSC00482.jpg

Friendly and curious shepards. Helped setting up my tent DSC00483.jpg

A old couple on the edge of Chang Tang. DSC00484.jpg

A old couple on the edge of Chang Tang DSC00485.jpg

Just gone over pass. Last people in 19 days just left behind DSC00486.jpg

Peak to the west I considered climbing before the trip. Too much snow, too steep and too bad weater... DSC00487.jpg

Peak to the west, some 6100 meters DSC00488.jpg

heavy clouds over mountain complex to the west DSC00489.jpg

Holes dug by animals searching for water. Chang Tang DSC00492.jpg

Holes dig by animals searching for water. Chang Tang. DSC00493.jpg

Peaks to the west. Chang Tang. DSC00494.jpg

Small river crossing. Chang Tang. DSC00495.jpg

st. Chang Tang. DSC00496.jpg

Crossing big open plain toward north/northwest DSC00498.jpg

Peaks to the east, Kangser Kangri to the far right? DSC00499.jpg

Peaks to the east, Kangser Kangri among them DSC00501.jpg

Peaks to the east. Chang Tang DSC00502.jpg

Peaks to the west. Chang Tang. DSC00503.jpg

Cave for a wolf? Chang Tang. DSC00504.jpg

Peaks to the east. Chang Tang DSC00505.jpg

Peaks west of burug lake? DSC00506.jpg

Peaks to the east. DSC00507.jpg

Peaks to the west, incl. 6100 meters peak DSC00509.jpg

Dead Chiru. DSC00510.jpg

In the middle of a open plain. DSC00511.jpg

Male Chirus DSC00512.jpg

Female Chirus DSC00514.jpg

Female Chirus
DSC00515.jpg

DSC00516.jpg

DSC00517.jpg

Peaks to the southwest DSC00518.jpg

Abandoned open industrial goldmine DSC00520.jpg

DSC00521.jpg

DSC00523.jpg

Looking up the goldmine toward distang pass. DSC00526.jpg

Things left behind by golddiggers DSC00527.jpg

Things left behind by golddiggers DSC00528.jpg

DSC00531.jpg

DSC00532.jpg

Looking down the river with the goldmine. DSC00533.jpg

Left behind material from golddiggers DSC00534.jpg

Old tent places for golddiggers DSC00535.jpg

Trash left behind by golddiggers DSC00536.jpg

Oil left behind by golddiggers DSC00537.jpg

Trash left behind by golddiggers DSC00538.jpg

Garbage left behind by golddiggers DSC00539.jpg

[ 本帖最后由 好风长吟 于 2008-9-15 00:37 编辑 ]

Snow storm comming in. Still 5 km. to top of pass... DSC00540.jpg

Barbage and snow in open goldmine in Chang Tang DSC00541.jpg

Tracks in the snow in goldmine in Chang Tang DSC00542.jpg

Camp the day after snow storm. Two km. to top of 5503 meters pass DSC00544.jpg

Looking back on the way up to the top of pass DSC00545.jpg

Had to use crampons to prevent sliding in the snow. DSC00546.jpg

Animal tracks near pass top DSC00547.jpg

Looking to the down north from 5503 meters pass. DSC00548.jpg

Descending from pass, heading northeast. DSC00550.jpg

Down from the pass on a open plain. Snow storm coming in. DSC00554.jpg

Trying to walk from the snow storm.... DSC00555.jpg

About to be caught by the snowstorm DSC00556.jpg

The next morning, about to leave then the gear has dried a bit. DSC00557.jpg
Heading toward lake situated at 5070 meters. DSC00558.jpg

Tent before taken down. DSC00559.jpg

Will more snow fall the next days... DSC00560.jpg

Drying gear - a wet sleeping bag is a disasterrr. DSC00561.jpg

A bird's nest DSC00563.jpg

Typical vegatation in Chang Tang DSC00564.jpg

Wolf tracks? DSC00567.jpg

Old campspot. Belongs to Sven Hedin? DSC00568.jpg

Old campspot DSC00569.jpg

Old campspot. About two meters in diameter DSC00571.jpg

Heading north of the lake toward another pass. Ground soft here. DSC00572.jpg

Dinner rest while drying gear. DSC00573.jpg

Dinner while drying gear. DSC00574.jpg

in front DSC00575.jpg

Wolf nearby my tent. DSC00576.jpg

Female Chirus after climbing pass. DSC00577.jpg

Looking back on pass. DSC00578.jpg

Heading north in riverbed. Dry and frossen. Possible to bike 10 kilometers here. DSC00579.jpg

High altitude enviroment. DSC00580.jpg

Typical Chang Tang in autumn. DSC00581.jpg

Heading north toward flat pass. Did nearly 30 kilometers this day. DSC00582.jpg

Looking southeast. Altitude above 5100 meters. DSC00583.jpg

Later in the day - ground too soft for cycling. DSC00584.jpg

Over small pass. Now passing small lake on my right. DSC00585.jpg

Harsh beauty. DSC00586.jpg

Campspot just before very soft riverstream crossing. DSC00587.jpg

Still not able to lift the bike due to all the food. Here heading north. DSC00588.jpg

Looking back DSC00589.jpg

First look on major mountain massive in front. Looks like the Sydney opera house on distance DSC00590.jpg

Bike tracks from 4 russian bikers going the opposite way one month before me without my knowledge DSC00591.jpg

About to leave relatively flat terrain DSC00593.jpg

Going over the first of two small but steep passes DSC00594.jpg

walking toward pass DSC00595.jpg

Good weather, good mood DSC00596.jpg

Looks easy, but much more steep terrain in reality DSC00597.jpg

Mountain complex on the border between Tibet and Xinjiang province DSC00598.jpg

Finished two sharp small passes, now awaits a river crossing I have feared much during the planning process DSC00599.jpg

Looking northwest along big rivervalley DSC00601.jpg

Male Chirus - easy to approach DSC00602.jpg

Male Chirus in winterfur DSC00603.jpg

First part of the rivervalley dryed out at this time of the year DSC00604.jpg

More tracks of the russians. I choose another route DSC00605.jpg

Going east up through riverbed on a small detour DSC00607.jpg

6300 meters peak in view to the north DSC00608.jpg

DSC00611.jpg

Pushing the bike over small hills DSC00613.jpg

Should I try to climb it or not? DSC00614.jpg

This line of mountains marks the border into the Xinjiang provence DSC00615.jpg

DSC00616.jpg

About to turn north cycling down a dry riverbed. DSC00617.jpg

Strange hills. DSC00618.jpg

Strange formations in sandy area DSC00619.jpg

unusual structure DSC00620.jpg

Stipa grass in front of sandy formations DSC00622.jpg

These sand formations gave me a strange feeling of not being alone DSC00632.jpg

There were small snow dunes everywhere along my way, minimising my need for carring water DSC00633.jpg

Twins DSC00634.jpg

Twins DSC00635.jpg

Descending riverbed DSC00636.jpg

Pushing the bike for a while. DSC00637.jpg

Small lake - much bigger than on my russian map. Reason: A lake futher east (according to my map) had been filled up with material , causing the water to enter this lake instead. DSC00638.jpg

Going south around small lake DSC00639.jpg

Still in doubt, should I go for it despite my bad boots DSC00640.jpg

east. DSC00641.jpg

Following riverbed. The best and most stable terrain. DSC00642.jpg

shales DSC00644.jpg

Snowy conditions in the mountains. DSC00645.jpg

Go for it or not... DSC00649.jpg

View from northwest to 6300 meters peak. DSC00650.jpg

Animal trail? DSC00651.jpg

DSC00652.jpg (73.18 KB)

DSC00652.jpg

Choose not to attempt a climb. Worried about my boots and how to get out of Chang Tang in case of an injury. DSC00653.jpg


Long haul northeast around the mountain complex DSC00655.jpg

GPS, Russian 1:200.000 map and notebook for coordinates. DSC00656.jpg


Soft ground. DSC00657.jpg

Hard pushing session! DSC00658.jpg

Heading straight ahead - crossing over deep deep river beds on the way. DSC00660.jpg

Gazoline container thrown by poachers long time ago? DSC00661.jpg

Gazoline container thrown by poachers long DSC00663.jpg

Heading north - Pushing the bike, gasp for air, push the bike, etc... DSC00664.jpg

The last hideout place for the Yeti? Looking back south on the mountain complex. DSC00665.jpg


My boots are a disaster. The Gore-Tex don't breath enough. DSC00667.jpg

On my way over a small mountain range. Ups and downs all the time. DSC00669.jpg


Small lake DSC00670.jpg

The lakes were all frosen during my crossing through Chang Tang. DSC00672.jpg


Had to make a 5 km. detour because I found it too risky to cross over 500 meters of ice. The ice seems ok, but something happened it could have been it. DSC00673.jpg

Frozen lake. Very noicy at night when temperatures plundged down to -28 C and the lakes froze even futher. DSC00675.jpg


Used half of a day going over a pass snowy here
DSC00676.jpg

[ 本帖最后由 好风长吟 于 2008-9-15 17:38 编辑 ]

Still big problems with my boots. DSC00679.jpg


Following riverbed up to another pass, the last big pass on the crossing. DSC00680.jpg


Rocks in riverbed looing east. DSC00681.jpg


Going down from the pass. DSC00682.jpg


Strange circle shaped stone, flat on both sides. To heavy to take along. DSC00684.jpg

Still following river, soon going below 5000 meters altitude DSC00685.jpg


Landscape flattens out DSC00686.jpg

Following frozen river for a whilie. DSC00687.jpg


To my amazement I suddenly run into tracks from heavy mashnes. Goldminers, I'm quite certain alsready at this point. DSC00688.jpg


Reluctant I follow the trails - must lead down to Pulu, more than 150 km. away. DSC00689.jpg

…………略去遇到车痕后图片无数…………


2 Responses to “添加一点羌塘的资料([ZZ]一个人的羌塘)”
  1. TinTin says:

    图片太多,copy的时候漏了一些说明文字……
    编辑太累,不打算再修改了

  2. axnzero says:

    勾魂啊

  3.  
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